ecco alla mia domanda la risposta seguente, vediamo di capirci qualcosa
"" Hi everyone
i have read about bearings question, but i now don't understand well which is the problem ...
you speak about load or axial force, bearing open face out or in, spacers etc
but where is the problem ?
there is a bit of general confusion
defective bearings, incorrect assembly, faulty design or something else ??
then, the t-rex 250 bearings solve the presunted problem?
http://www.helipal.com/h25060-bearin...qk1mdi1t86akp2
i have o couple of this
definitely, what i have to check when my hely arrive ??
please, can someone do a summary about this topic ? ""
Like every other CP heli out there, you'll need to have the screwdrivers, the bottle of blue (or purple) Loctite, and possibly some CA ready. Looking over at Helifreak, the main issues are:
A) Check all the metal-on-metal fasteners. The feathering shaft has a habit of disassembling itself unless you apply a little Loctite to the screws. On that note, you should be periodically checking all the screws on this heli . . . just like every other CP heli out there.
There are reports that the bearings on the mCP X's blade grips have the rare, but noteworthy, habit of disassembling themselves; turning the blades into eyeball-seeking missiles. Fortunately, there are bearings from the T-Rex 250 which are suitable replacements.
C) The main gear is press-fitted onto the shaft and is retained by friction alone. Some people have reported that it tends to migrate downward, inducing vibrations.
D) You have to be on top of the collective on takeoff, since the mCP X (like every other FBL heli) will tend to try to tip over on takeoff.
E) It's (and this should be no surprise to anyone) surprisingly twitchy, and doing 3D requires much better collective management than bigger, more powerful, helis. It's not a suitable next step from an mSR.
F) When you pull off the blade grip, look at the bearing face on the blade side of the grip. You should be able to see the copper/brass retaining ring visible in the gap between the inner and outer race on this side of the bearing, (if you see all silver, pry it out and flip it around, as it has been installed backward at the factory).
And G) While that blade grip is still in your hands, look at the hub side of it. The bearing face on this side should show all silver, and you shouldn't be seeing the copper/brass retaining ring on this side.
If your blade grip shows the copper ring on the hub side and the all silver face on the grip side, it is probably a failure just waiting to happen.